TECHNICAL FILE

Wig Mania!

A practical session today helped me see how different coloured hair and hair cuts could drastically change a persons face. I tried on a variety of wigs today and I looked completely different in each and every one of them. I noticed short hair made me look 20 years older, dark hair washed me out and made me look a tad ill and short blonde hair just did not suit me at all. Wigs are such a vital product for many theater shows but a lot of films/TV shows also use them. A wig can transform Jennifer Aniston from herself into Marie Antoinette in no more than 30 minutes with the right application and style and it is truly fascinating.

I am thinking of concentrating on facial and body features while sourcing my models so I can include wigs as part of my design. I think this will challenge me on the day and during research and practice sessions and it will allow me to get a better skill set within the hair aspect of this industry. Today I learnt how to attach a wig safely and securely to a models head by either french Plaiting the hair or pin curling the hair, both I found very fun to do. Trying on the wigs had to be the best part of my practical session. I found different styles on my model changed not only the way she looked but some of the styles and colors together changed her personality a little, Particularly the mid length black wig with a fringe. I found my model looked quite domineering and strong where as she looked very elegant and soft in a caramel/brown wig in the same cut.

Wig Application

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Step By Step-

  • Brush hair until free from any knots/tangles.
  • Section the hair in halves (right side and left side) equally.
  • Starting from the front of the head, start to french plait the hair ensuring it remains as tight and close to the scalp as possible, this will ensure NO lumps or bumps under the wig.
  • Once both french plaits are complete take both pony tails and create a circle on the middle of the head.

Depending on the length of the hair you are working on (my models was very long) you could also use pin curls.To create pin curls follow the steps-

  • start with a small section of hair and wind around your fingers
  • carefully pull free the curl from the fingers ensuring it’s still tight.
  • using 2 grips diagonally, pin to the head so the curl lays flat.

Once these steps have been completed you must now ensure the model has a stock cap fitted correctly and securely. Get your model to hold the front as you pull the cap over the back of the head and secure behind the ears with grips. IF there is any loose hairs use your pin tale comb to carefully push back into the cap.

Now the fun part! Once all the above steps are complete you can now pop the desired wig on. To do so you must

  • Ensure cap is fully secure and invisible
  • Politely ask your model to hold the front of the wig as you pull it over the back of their head. Make sure the wig feels as comfortable as possible for your model.
  • If you require the hair to be styled as part of the look, do so before hand. Wigs are very uncomfortable and warm up a person very quickly, any heat/fidgeting would cause discomfort.

Evaluation:

Super happy! I have not practiced any plaiting since last semester and without any help and no difficulty I successfully created a french plait! I do however, believe it could be a little more tighter and cleaner but as it was going under a stock cap this did not really matter. My wig application was good, I attached them correctly and they remained stable. I did also practice the pin curls on the front part of my models hair, they were quite difficult to start with but became easier the more I did which is encouraging.

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FACIAL HAIR

Step by Step-

  • Using kryolan glue, scrape a little off with a wooden or metal spatular and begin to warm it on the back of your hand.
  • use your fingers to apply a small amount where your facial hair will be put.
  • You facial hair will be create from crepe hair, use scissors and lightly chop at the hair to get tiny strands to mirror facial hair/stubble.
  • use an old or worn brush to gather the hair and place lightly over the area in which the glue is. continue until the desired look is achieved.

VINTAGE MAKE UP

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Black and White Make Up/Vintage 1930’s has to be one of my favorite practical lessons of all time! I loved how we learnt that years ago, when photos were shot in black and white make up looked amazing but in real life, it looked a little weird. At the start of the demonstration I was unsure how this was going to turn out into a beautiful, sculpted image but it did!

Step By Step-

  • Prep skin accordingly using Cleanser, Toner, Moisturizer and Primer.
  • You want to create a pale base (not white) as this will reflect off the face, similar to what highlighting does. I used the lightest Kryolan foundation mixed with Illamasqua Skin Base in white
  • Once the base is even and flawless you can powder the face
  • To powder, use a translucent or HD powder mixed with white eyeshadow
  • To contour you should use a dark brown powder/eyeshadow
  • Apply heavily to the hollow parts of the cheekbones and blend outwards; for correct effect you should not blend to much
  • Use same product to contour along the jawline, temples and the nose (paying particular attention to the bridge of the nose and blend upwards and onto the eyebrow.
  • Eyebrows should be very thin, to correspond with the era and use a black to fill in to create a really strong structure.
  • Apply a touch of water to your brush and use the same dark brown or black eyeshadow and pull the eyebrow up, as you do go from the inner corner of the eye and follow the crease and flick up at the end. Go heavier for a dramatic look or softer.
  • Once your finished and ready to shoot (after lips) you can use a shine mixing medium or Vaseline to the lid of the eye.
  • On to lips, using the same contour color and a thin/hard lip brush take the product along the lip line, you can over line the lips if needed. Start from the middle of the bottom lip and then as you start the top lip start from the inner corner and follow up.
  • Using a black lipstick or lipmix and color in the lip. You can then add shine mixing medium to create a glossy finish.

Evaluation-

I really enjoyed the Vintage Make up master class today. I think I did an excellent job with the contouring particularly on the jawline and cheekbones. Looking back at the images I can now see I need to darken my eye detail and blend the nose contour more. I also feel the lips could be more sharp around the lines but overall I am happy with the image outcomes!

 

Hollywood Hair


  
  
  

Step By Step:

  • Depending on length and thickness of the hair; use one or two sets of rollers.
  • Before you start prepping the hair turn on the rollers to ensure they are hot enough by the time you are ready to roll the hair.
  • Once you have brushed through the hair and there are no knots you can start to section the hair.
  • separate the front part of the hair (fringe) and use a clip to keep in place
  • From the top part of the head (crown) and down to the dent before the nape of the neck will be brick work style roller application.
  • Take your first section at the top ensuring its a clean line, not too thick and no longer than the roller in width
  • pull the hair away from you and begin to roll down. Use your pin tale comb to keep the tension.
  • Roll all the way down and let the roller sit on the section you just rolled.
  • Secure in place with either a big clip or metal grip.
  • Continue the process in brickwork. Always start in the middle and work outwards.
  • The remaining hair (by the ear) will need to be rolled towards the face. Using the same technique as before. Ensure you have a firm grip on the hair and keep the tension.
  • Take the parting off center
  • Use the rollers up and over (sideways) rather than backwards/forwards. This will frame the face.
  • Take this part down just past the temple and depending on length and thickness you will then go back to the rollers that are going towards the face.
  • once cool (check insides) you can start to remove the hair.
  • Once removed lightly spray with hairspray and then using a paddle brush comb under and on top of the hair and fix into place.

Evaluation

Massive improvement’s still happening with regards to hair styling. I use rollers very often on my own hair so I understood the steps clearly however doing them on someone else is very different to on yourself. I found some of my sections dropped when in the rollers and I had to re do several of them which was not a problem as it allowed me to understand and fix where I went wrong. The outcome of the hair was beautiful and I am very happy with it.

 

Sci Fi Make Up

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Step By Step:

  • Once you have finalised your design, choose your products to use.
  • Powder products can be watered down for higher pigment/colour pay off.
  • If working straight from your palettes ensure you SPRAY WITH ANTIBACTERIAL solution to stop any contamination.
  • For this particular look: I used a foundation to lightly even out the skin and cover blemishes.
  • I wanted this to look more like a tribe mask so I tried to reduce the use of make up brushes to get a more realistic look.
  • To create the triangle shape along the cheekbones I used masking tape and filled in with a RED supracolour and YELLOW supracolour and blended with my fingers.
  • For the lips I used a BLACK aquacolour and a firm eyebrow brush to create the flick effect.

Evaluation: Considering I had no formal design and ran with this look randomly I think it looks pretty cool. The lips and shapes around the cheekbones have to be my favorite part. Overall I think this looks wicked and even though some of the make up is not clean and tidy this imitates a tribe make up brilliantly as they wouldn’t be using make up brushes!

 

 

Natural Make Up and Hair

 

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Step by step:

Make Up-

  • Ensure your models skin is free from any make up
  • cleanse tone and moisturise the skin to prep.
  • As this is a minimal/natural make up look you need not use foundation. Take a tinted moisturiser, BB Creme or normal moisturiser mixed with a little foundation to give the skin a flawless yet natural appearance. Do not over load, less is more. continue onto the neck also.
  • Set the skin slightly with a loose powder.
  • Use a powder contour colour thats similar to the models skin tone and place this in the eye socket, a little on the temple, cheek bone and jaw line. THIS MUST BE VERY LITTLE, LOAD THE BRUSH ONCE.
  • Use an eyebrow gel to complete the brows and fill in where needed, LIGHTLY.
  • Use a brown mascara or black and use a little on the upper and lower lash line.
  • Take a gloss that is almost identical to the models lip colour and dap on using you finger

 

Hair-

  • Brush your models hair free of any knots
  • As we are creating a sleek pony tail you will need a hair tie, hair pins, comb, hairspray and a brush.
  • Use the brush to gather the hair into your hand.
  • Once you have all the hair together use the comb sprayed with a little hairspray to comb to hair as tightly as possible
  • use an elastic band or hair tie to secure the hair
  • Spray the hair with hairspray and use the comb once again to make sure no stray hairs are loose
  • Section a tiny strip of hair from the pony tail and wrap around the bobble and secure with a hair pin.
  • spray the brush with hairspray and gently brush through the pony tail.

Evaluation

Minimal make up, as i like to call it takes a lot to achieve. I enjoyed this lesson because I gained control on product use, I felt I did well with no overloading products which I ca tend to do when creating a more heavy look but i was very strict and used around 5 products for the face.

The hair is something I think works well with the natural make up look, I enjoyed re visiting this as I knew what I was doing and I improved on parts that were unsuccessful last time which was great.

 

 

 

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